HOW IT’S MADE

GRIT WEST LEATHER 12-STEP CREATIVE PROCESS
The end results of my process can be viewed here or at my ETSY Store.  This link will take you to my ETSY Store:  GRIT WEST LEATHER at ETSY  to check out pricing.

Every piece, large or small, created by GRIT WEST LEATHER, that would be me, is painstakingly crafted by my slow, slow, hands and OCD mind.  In my humble, somewhat anal-retentive opinion, there are no short cuts to high quality leather work.  Following is a not-so-brief description of the typical 12-Step, GRIT WEST PROCESS a hand tooled item typically goes through before you finally acquire and use it.

2.5" Guitar Strap Chan Geer Tooling Pattern 2"-8A & 8B Custom Guitar by CACTEYE Guitars
2.5″ Guitar Strap
Chan Geer Tooling Pattern 2″-8A & 8B
Custom Guitar by CACTEYE Guitars

My process for making guitar straps or belts, for example, is described below for a western style, floral pattern with dark background, the most labor intensive strap/belt style I currently make.  A floral, hand carved, guitar strap, rifle sling or belt with dark background requires eight to twelve hours to design, size, carve, tool, edge burnish, dye and finish.  The 8-12 hours are spread out over a four to five day period, allowing time for sizing, casing, carving, drying, oiling, edge burnishing and set-up between steps.

Sheridan style floral with dark background.
Sheridan style floral with dark background.

A similar process is used for bracelets, cuffs, pendants, etc., though smaller, less complex pieces are obviously less time intensive.  A basket weave pattern, for instance appears complex, but is less time intensive than floral patterns, requiring only three to four hours to complete depending on size of weave stamp.  This is why a nice basket weave belt can sell for $135 versus $215 to $450 or more for a carved, tooled, intricately dyed floral pattern.  Both belts will last a lifetime, but the floral requires an additional 5 to 8 hours to create.

My leathers are typically purchased from tanneries such as Hermann Oak Leather Company, Horween Leather Company (The Tannery Row) or Wickett & Craig of America.  I prefer domestic, Made In The USA leathers and materials, but admit to some partiality regarding waxed Tiger Thread (Ritza 25) {0.8mm for wallets and such;  1.0mm for heavier leathers} manufactured in Denmark by Julius Koch Company for hand stitching.

This 12- Step Description can also be used as a HOW-TO guide for any new leather workers interested in my process.

Step 1.   Cut the belt blank from a hide (or buy a pre-cut blank – more expensive).  Usually a shoulder or back is used for cutting straps.  I prefer shoulders personally as it seems there is usually less waste.  Bellies, flanks and legs are too soft and pliable for durable belts and straps.  (Of late, I’ve been buying 10-11 oz. Hermann Oak Single Sides for straps.  The quality is phenomenal and waste nearly non-existent.)  Necks are too wrinkled and have spongy, soft , less dense areas that again, aren’t useful for belts and straps.  Shoulders, however, can be wrinkled as well, so care must be taken when purchasing hides.  Sides are probably safer to purchase when ordering sight unseen.

Leather closest to the backbone has the tightest grain, will be most firm and function best for durable belts and straps.  As I cut strips closer to the belly and neck, the less dense the leather will be and it may feel stretchy.  Belt blanks are cut lengthwise, front to back along the hide.  I try to use the butt or tail end of the back or shoulder for the billet end of the belt as this will be the most dense, firmest part of the hide and will stand up to the wear and strain the billet end will experience over its useful life.  I prefer the head end of the strip for the buckle end of the belt.

I typically use 10-11 oz. (5/32″)  veg-tanned leather for belts, bracelets and cuffs, though  8-9 oz is satisfactory and a bit more pliable.  Holster belts, of course, are doubled up and are much thicker, tooled or not.

Step 2.  Develop the design or layout on paper for the pattern or work up a rough sketch if the design is to be laid out directly on the leather.  For any item requiring swivel knife work, I at least work up a sketch.  I’m not as talented as those who can just sit down and start carving a design out of their head.  Maybe someday?  My drawings and sketches tend to suck pond water, but fortunately the swivel knife itself smooths out the curves wonderfully.

Step 3.  Size the belt, cut the buckle and billet end tapers, if any;   punch buckle holes and bevel the edges on grain and flesh sides.  The buckle end is skived (thinned 25% to 30% of thickness) on the flesh side to eliminate unnecessary bulk at the buckle attachment.  {Many leather workers punch the billet holes after tooling is complete for better sizing accuracy as tooling elongates the leather somewhat.  I admit to this somewhat anal-retentive practice myself, though I haven’t really noticed the length increase to be significant.  I guess if it’s good enough for the Masters, it’s good enough for me, so I punch billet holes after tooling is complete and don’t argue with myself about it.}

Step 4.  Case the leather.  Casing is moisture conditioning and is done by thoroughly soaking the leather in a ceramic or plastic bowl or dish (never metallic).  After soaking, the leather is sealed in a plastic bag and left overnight.  In the morning, I remove the leather to air dry until the moisture content is correct for swivel knife work.  On small pieces I don’t often case, just wet, dry to an appropriate moisture content and go to work.

Note to new leather workers:
If you’re new to leather work, you’ll find moisture content critical to how your final carving, tooling product comes out.  I prefer to work a bit on the dry side, but this is a personal preference.  Moisture content directly effects how deep, open or closed your swivel knife cuts will be and also the depth, marking clarity and overall appearance of stamping tool work.  If leather is overly wetted, it becomes spongy, swivel knife cuts will close up and stamps will not leave a clear, sharp pattern marking.  You’ll also quickly determine that wetter/dryer moisture content works best for different tools at different stages in the process.  It depends what you’re going for.

I live and work in Coolidge, Arizona, about 50 miles southeast of Phoenix, with low humidity, so I tend to case larger items.  Years ago, back in central Wisconsin – more humidity – I never cased anything. If I did, it could be all day or even days before the moisture dropped enough to work.  I just wetted the item, let it dry till the moisture was right and went to work.  For me, the moisture is right when the leather has nearly returned to its original color.

Step 5.  The pattern is transferred from paper or the layout design is marked directly on the leather using a stylus.  When transferring from paper, I use a blue, medium, ball point pen (with a light touch) so I can see what I’ve already traced.   On a large piece, I’ll cover the damp leather with plastic food wrap, then place the paper over the wrap.  This prevents the paper from becoming wet, which if allowed to happen facilitates the blue pen punching through while tracing, making a horrible mess.  I doubt many leather workers ever dare use a pen.  Despite the inherent risk, I like using the blue ball point pen so I can see what I’ve traced.  I’m slowly learning to just do layout directly on the leather piece, but my limited drawing skills bind me to an uphill struggle – which I will eventually win.

1.75″ Wide Tooled Border Belt: Note – Tooling pattern is loosely taken from Mr. Will Ghormley’s Hand of God holster rig made for Mr. Russell Crow as Ben wade in the popular movie 3:10 to Yuma.

Step 6.  While waiting for the cased (moisture conditioned) leather to dry to where I want it, I gather tools, patterns and what-not and also give the edges their first edge burnish, since the edges are still nice and damp.  With the design laid out, I do the swivel knife work;  then bevel and finish tooling with whichever stamping tools are needed.  I’m old school and bevel every swivel knife cut.  I usually do back grounding and decorative swivel knife cuts last, when the leather is nearly dry and end the tooling work with the second edge burnish, which I do using a cocobolo or rosewood burnisher, while the piece is still a bit damp.  If the leather is too dry, I’ll dampen the edges before burnishing.  With tooling complete, I punch five billet end holes with center hole per the correct belt size.  The carving/tooling process for a typical 1.75″ wide belt requires three to six hours depending on length and complexity of design.  A large wall hanging by comparison, may require 50 to 100 hours just for carving and tooling and a cuff as little as 10 or 15 minutes.

I use a small, Dremel mounted burnisher for small, thin pieces and a larger, drill press mounted burnisher (at +/-  1,100 to1,300 RPM’s) for larger, thicker projects, like gun belts or holsters.  {Running the burnisher higher than 1,300 RPM’s  risks burning the leather as opposed to burnishing it;  not a good idea.)  These, along with an air brush system are the only machines GRIT WEST leather uses.  I don’t use sewing machines.  All stitching at GRIT WEST is done via traditional, hand saddle stitching techniques because the thread will never unravel if a stitch is broken.  I’ve hand stitched bags 40 years ago, that are still just fine today.  This is one reason I don’t make a lot of lined guitar straps and rifle slings.  Hand stitching, even when done quickly,  can add $50 to $100 to an item, which makes me un-competitive with Makers who machine-sew lined straps and slings.

Note:  When using Fiebing’s oil based dyes and finishes, I use a bee’s wax/paraffin compound for edge burnishing, but I don’t like how the wax/paraffin sets up when using water based dyes and finishing products.  These days I’m using mostly water based, environmentally friendly dyes and finishes.  For these projects I prefer gum tragacanth as the edge sealer for burnishing.

Step 7.  I allow the leather to dry for the rest of the day, then work in a nice coat of Pure Neatsfoot Oil (Not Prime Neatsfoot Oil – it’s too strong and will likely darken the leather permanently) to both sides and let it sit overnight.

Step 8.  The next morning I burnish the edges a third time and start dye work.  If doing a dark background, this will normally take 2.5 to 5 hours to complete.  I always do the lighter foreground color(s) first;  the dark background last, because I’ve noticed that if I drop or brush a bit of dark dye on a light area – if the light area has already been dyed and rubbed a bit – I may be able to quickly brush the dark spot off before it penetrates.   For figure carving work, I always work light to dark anyway.  “CAUTION” – If a dark color dye such as brown or black is dropped or brushed onto un-dyed vegetable tanned leather – it’s there to stay and you’ll probably cry.  I also dye the edges, wait till dry and burnish a fourth time.  I do edge burnishing as a series of steps because the edges take dye better and the final product will have a very nice, professionally finished edge.  Doing it in steps doesn’t mess with my boredom threshold as much as doing all the edge burnishing at the end.  I’m currently experimenting with wetting the leather slightly before dying.  It seems penetration of water based dyes is faster and deeper if the leather is slightly damp.  Not sure about this yet.  Mr. Will Ghormley has done extensive testing on this and his results are available on his website, to which I provide a link under MAKERS GRIT LIKES.

Step 9.  I let the dye dry for the rest of the day, then apply a second, lighter coat of Pure Neatsfoot Oil (Not Prime Neatsfoot Oil) and let it sit overnight.

Step 10.   Different finishes are applied different ways as you might imagine.  Depending on the design and nature of the project, I usually use one of two finishes.  The first requires hand rubbing or buffing the dyed item, doing a pre-final edge burnish followed by applying a generous coat of water based leather finish in either a glossy or satin sheen.  This is allowed to dry and edges are finished with gum tragacanth, which is also allowed to dry.  Edges are given a final hand burnish with a piece of denim and the overall piece is given a final hand buffing with sheepskin or a soft cotton cloth.  This type finish is highly water resistant.  I do all my hand buffing with soft cotton cloths or sheep wool remnants.

The second finishing method consists of hand rubbing the dyed piece; then hand rubbing in a carnuba wax emulsion or more often, my personal favorite, OBENAUF’s HEAVY DUTY LP leather preservative;  letting it dry; then hand rubbing or buffing to a soft, mellow, rich patina.  A second coat is frequently necessary to obtain a deep, rich luster this way.  The carnuba finish is not very water resistant and in my opinion should not be used for outdoor gear or outdoor accessories.  The OBENAUF’s LP is water resistant and also protects against mildew and what-not, so it is suitable for outdoor gear.

A third type of finish I have done, but don’t normally do is to simply rub in a nice coat of Extra Virgin Olive Oil and buff it out.  This is another idea I picked up from Will Ghormley, whose work I obviously admire.

Step 11.  Assembly is completed for buckle attachment, conchos, snaps, rivets, etc. and I inspect the item to make sure buckles, snaps, etc. are working and are attached properly.  I usually apply a drop of blue thread lock to any screw back conchos.  This prevents the concho from coming loose (usually), but allows the concho to easily be removed if a buckle is being changed out or whatever.  (Red thread lock is overkill.)

Step 12.  The item is given a final inspection, final hand rubbed polish, then shipped to the customer or placed in inventory.

If you’ve read this far and are still with me, you now understand why a quality, hand crafted leather item, such as those created by GRIT WEST or other such folks are a bit more expensive than  machine embossed, machine sewn, slave labor items made in China.  The leather itself, though costly is not a huge expense.  The big expense is the labor of love involved.

 GRIT WEST LEATHER items are made for discerning customers, sophisticated enough and knowledgeable enough to appreciate the care and effort required to produce one-of-a-kind, hand made, usable/wearable art works.

I hope you enjoy using your GRIT WEST LEATHER  item(s) every bit as much as I enjoy making them for you.

Note to Leather Workers:
I am not territorial regarding the techniques I use.  I have no trade secrets.  If you have questions or are interested in how I do this or that, drop me an email or leave a comment and I’ll happily share what limited knowledge I’ve acquired on that particular subject.  I may also be able to point you to someone else, whom I believe is really skilled at a particular task.  There’s a lot of talented people out there we can all learn from and hopefully do our part in keeping this wonderful craft of leather working alive and vibrant.  Happy carving!!!

1.75" Wide Hand Tooled Leather WAVE Belt in tan over black.
1.75″ Wide Hand Tooled Leather WAVE Belt in tan over black.

Contact:  bruce@gritwest.com

Bruce

 

 

 

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